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A restaurant interior with a long, natural wood bar, colorful mural above the bar, and curtains letting in light on wooden tables.
The stunning dining room and bar at Goodbye Horses.
Goodbye Horses

The 38 Best London Restaurants, According to Eater’s Local Dining Expert

The best meals in London, from Michelin fine dining to beloved street food, according to a longtime restaurant editor

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The stunning dining room and bar at Goodbye Horses.
| Goodbye Horses

The story of the London food scene is one that includes dim sum, Sunday roasts, curries, pizza, sinasir, rarebits, banh mi, udon, pepper pot, sweetbread suya, and natural wine. Across cuisines, neighborhoods, and price points, all these dishes and drinks place London among the very best and most diverse places to eat in the world.

This guide, which I’ve been compiling and iterating on for the better part of the last decade, aims to reflect the best food and most important restaurants in the capital. As of winter 2025, London is enjoying the emergence of an increasing number of classically French-inspired restaurants, while diners — perhaps a little jaded by the status quo of the post-pandemic cookie-cutter opening — are revisiting old classics, many of which either maintain consistency through years of habit or just get better with age.

I want this map to help you navigate a city in which it is all too easy to eat poorly, but in which it is increasingly inexcusable to do so. It will showcase a mix of over three dozen restaurants, which have all done outstanding things in extraordinary times: emerging, surviving, thriving, and continuing to enrich the city and its food culture through more than half a decade of unprecedented change and tumult.

In this latest refresh, we’ve revamped our write-ups to include even more relevant info for diners, including a rough range of pricing for each destination — ranging from $ for quick, inexpensive meals with dishes largely under $10 USD (or the equivalent in pounds), to $$$$ for places where entrees exceed $30.

New to the map in March 2025: Ambassador’s Clubhouse, an over-the-top Punjabi restaurant fit for a party; Ikoyi, a two-Michelin-starred special occasion restaurant serving ultra-modern West African tasting menus; and Goodbye Horses, a thoroughly stylish new-age wine bar with an immaculate wine list and avant-garde small plates.

Adam Coghlan is a writer and editor based in London. In 2017, he launched Eater London and ran the site until it ceased daily publication in 2023.

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Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process. If you buy something or book a reservation from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy.

Durak Tantuni

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Open for: Lunch through late night
Price range: $
As Jonathan Nunn wrote in his guide to north London’s best-value restaurants, “Durak, a tantuni salonu run by Dogan Yesil on West Green Road, is the superior late night snack template.” Only the tantuni, a speciality which originates in the city of Mersin on the southern coast of Turkey, is served here. Beef is boiled, seasoned with the likes of tomato, pul biber, sumac, and cumin and subsequently fried in cotton oil before being loaded, meat juices aplenty, inside a thin lavash with chopped parsley, tomato, and onion. It is then given a pleasing bend before being eaten; a selection of high-acid accompaniments — pickled chiles, lemon — provide the necessary cut-through.
Best for: A snack on the way home after a long day.

Meat and veggies in a wrap about to be wrapped up.
The tantuni is ready to be rolled.
Michaël Protin

Etles Uyghur Restaurant

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Mukaddes Yadikar’s restaurant near Walthamstow Central station opened in London in summer 2017. It was London’s first strictly Uyghur restaurant, and has become perhaps E17’s finest neighborhood restaurant. To start, go for the Chaomian, a stir-fry of short noodle snippets wokked with chunks of beef, spring onion, and tomato. Third, and most importantly, get the signature da pan ji (“big plate chicken”): a remarkably deep, savoury, and spicy chicken and potato stew, teeming with Sichuan peppercorns, served with flat hand-pulled noodles. This is a warm, homely, and treasured space to eat in east London.
Best for: Casual dinner with a group.

A variety of dishes, including a meat and vegetable platter, rice and noodles, and soup.
Dishes at Etles.
Andrew Leitch

Bake Street

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Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
This small Stoke Newington cafe seriously overdelivers, preparing some of London’s best American diner-style smash burgers, Nashville hots, playful samosas, and the inimitable chicken makhani sandwich come the weekend, with a solid core menu for weekday visitors. Its sweet offering isn’t half bad either; cookies are particularly excellent, as is the seasonal ice cream from Crabtree and co-founder Feroz Gajia in warmer months.
Must-try dish: Do not miss the ingenious creme brulee cookie, developed by pastry chef Chloe-Rose Crabtree from a recipe by Los Angeles’s Dough and Arrow. And the makhani chicken bun at weekends.

A fried chicken sandwich with cheese.
Bake Street’s fried chicken with makhani sauce, American cheese, and coriander chutney on brioche.
Adam Coghlan

Open for: Lunch and dinner on weekends, dinner only during the week
Price range: $$
Eater London’s Restaurant of the Year 2022 comprises three discrete yet intertwined endeavors. Downstairs in the basement kitchen, George Jephson butchers whole animals, repurposing them as immaculate charcuterie, while upstairs, chef Mike Murphy uses excellent ingredients to prepare simple plates that lean French and southern European — think trout poached in butter with roe and sorrel; or a roast game bird with quince and bitter leaves. Sommeliers Tom Beattie and Fran Roberts, the duo behind the wine importer bearing both names, run the bar and the floor with a small team. Cadet is a wine bar, a restaurant, a charcutier, and a shopfront; it feels French and it feels London; and, from the moment it opened, it has always felt just right.
Must-try dish: Pate en croute.

A group of people mills around outside a restaurant with large windows.
Outside Cadet on Newington Green in north London.
Michaël Protin

Bad Manners

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Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
Bad Manners — a breakfast and lunch kiosk, originally called Quarter Kitchen, which Max Fishman opened with chef Rodrigo Cervantes in a Hackney churchyard in summer 2022 — serves some of London’s best Mexican food. Originally from Mexico City and previously an employee of Smoking Goat, Koya, and Rita’s in London, Cervantes cooks a mighty fine breakfast. Options include two tortillas with hash browns, fried eggs, and smoked bacon glazed with maple syrup and sugar; breakfast burritos based on the American McDonald’s version (with sausage patties, American cheese, and chopped peppers); gorditas; tepache; tacos al pastor done on a small yakitori grill inside the kiosk; and the mess-making bright-red pambazo. Bad Manners also serves excellent coffee and features a range of espressos from some of Europe’s best roasters.
Best for: Mexican and Mexican-American breakfast outdoors.

A bean, potato, and fried egg breakfast taco on a white plate with yellow rim on a blue background.
Bean, potato, and fried egg breakfast taco.
Caitlin Isola

Bánh Mì Hội-An

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Open for: Weekday lunch
Price range: $
This diminutive Vietnamese shop on Hackney’s Graham Road serves one of the city’s best sandwiches — inside one of the city’s best baguettes. Although the spot has just one table and three or four seats, it’s difficult to think of warmer hospitality than at Bánh Mì Hội-An. The duo behind the counter prepare fresh sandwiches to go, and while the pork classic is excellent, don’t sleep on the turmeric-heavy fried catfish on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays; fragrant with coriander, mayo, fermented chile paste, sriracha, and pickled vegetables, it is an object lesson in flavor, texture, and balance.
Best for: Takeaway lunch.

From above, a partially eaten banh mi sandwich and a cup of mostly eaten soup, with napkins and utensils.
Banh mi with a chicken noodle soup — a perfect, restorative winter lunch.
Adam Coghlan

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Trullo’s elegant dining room and simple, seasonal food make it one of London’s best Italian restaurants and one of its finest neighborhood restaurants. Dark wood, low lighting, white tablecloths, and straightforward plating make Trullo decidedly anti-Instagram. Its spiritual parents are the two most important restaurants of a generation, the River Cafe and St. John. Dishes marry Italian traditions with British (and Italian) ingredients, which are fashioned into antipasti, fresh pastas, and secondi, dishes that often do a little time on the charcoal grill. Where sibling site Padella is cheaper, faster, and increasingly difficult to get into, Trullo is more of a grown-up place to eat and relax. A largely Italian (and natural-leaning) wine list is just as considered as everything else.
Must-try dish: The signature pappardelle with beef shin ragu.

A slice of tart with a dollop of cream alongside.
Lemon tart at Trullo.
Trullo

Yuki Bar

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Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$
Ex-Noma sommelier Yukiyasu Kaneko’s wine bar, set in a cozy space beneath a railway arch close to London Fields, may yet become the new template for natural wine bars, a category that has grown a little tired and derivative. Few other businesses can rival Yuki’s assured sense of self and pleasing ambience. An extensive (and fairly priced) list includes highlights from the Jura, Savoie, and Loire regions, as well as bottles from elsewhere in the Old World. Food is secondary but not an afterthought, with snacky dishes such as eggs with tahini, house-made potato crisps dressed with sansho pepper, cured beet tops, silken tofu with mushrooms, and made-to-order beef tartare.
Must-try dish: Ask Yuki for his best wines from the Jura or the Savoie.

Thattukada

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
East Ham is home to London’s largest Kerala community and its greatest concentration of South Indian restaurants. The pick of them is Thattukada, run by chef-owners Biju and Preeti Gopinath. Curries and roasts have a depth of flavor and spicing that belie their simple descriptions, and they should be mopped up with crisp parottas or snow-white appams. But it’s the legendary fries that are unmissable: half a chicken cut into segments, then aggressively and skillfully fried with chiles and crispy onions; little netholi (anchovies) cooked and eaten whole; or battered mussels that pop thrillingly in the mouth.
Must-try dish: Get the mussel fry.

A plate of chicken fry on a dark background.
Chicken fry at Thattukada in East Ham, an outstanding Kerala neighbourhood restaurant.
Tomas Jivanda

Planque

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Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$$
This elegantly designed wine club beneath a Haggerston railway arch now firmly belongs in the top bracket of (French) restaurants in London. Chef Seb Myers and his modern-ish, playful take on French country cooking fits perfectly with the fascinating and broad wine list owned by patron Jonathan Alphandery. With dishes such as a red mullet tartine; grilled leeks vinaigrette with Tunworth cheese; a duck offal choux farcis; and mackerel with coco beans and greens; as well as a caramel tart with blue cheese, Planque has nearly everything that makes a great modern European restaurant great.
Best for: Pairing some of London’s cleverest cooking with some of the best wine in the city.

A restaurant exterior with artwork on a white brick wall and a small sign with the restaurant’s name.
Outside Planque.
Michaël Protin

The Yellow Bittern

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Open for: Lunch
Price range: $$
This quaint place close to King’s Cross hasn’t been open long, but has been a conversation starter the likes of which the London restaurant scene hasn’t seen for years. Chef and Belfastman Hugh Corcoran’s sub-20-seater venue is open only at lunchtime (midday and 2 p.m. sittings are offered), reservations must be made via the restaurant’s landline (or postcard, honestly), it is cash-only, and the wine menu is all kept inside the faintly grumpy, periodically affable proprietor’s head. You can skip the starters (save, perhaps, the homemade soda bread and butter); just head straight to the mains, where you might find a slice of game bird pie with mash, a portion of braised guinea fowl with cabbage, or a fantastic rendition of a Dublin classic — coddle: boiled, peppery white sausages in a salty broth with root vegetables and lots of allium. This place eschews everything that the London restaurant industry has become, while bringing forth some (if not all) of the good things it once offered. And you can say, “I was there then.”
Best for: Going back in time.

A four-top table with a white tablecloth spread with a mostly finished meal including plates with scraps, utensils, and, in one case, a napkin on them, an empty cooking pot, an open bottle of wine, and a small amount of red wine left in the glasses.
A spread at The Yellow Bittern.
Hugh Corcoran

Roti King

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
The area around Euston station is replete with no-frills, delicious places to eat. This little Malaysian basement setup from chef Sugen Gopal on Doric Way may be the best. Two pieces of freshly made, high-moisture roti canai — to eat in or take away — are best served with curry dal. Roti King has a few other locations throughout London as well.
Know before you go: The new online queueing system makes for a seamless experience.

A server holds a platter of roti and dal.
Roti canai and daal at Roti King, a classic London restaurant.
Ola Smit

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Chef Ed Wilson’s hearty French Italian menu is a showcase for his own personal love of food. To eat here is to share that passion, especially now with an increased emphasis on fresh pasta and spectacular comfort food. Wines are predominantly natural and biodynamic. Illustrated wine posters, art, and curios on whitewashed brick walls also make the two relaxed dining rooms on Columbia Road among London’s most handsome and cool. 
Vibe check: This place has the city’s smallest and most beautiful bathrooms — among the very first to use Aesop, too.

A plate of agnolotti bathed in warm autumnal light, flecked with Parmesan cheese and purple radicchio leaves.
Agnolotti at Brawn.
James Hansen

Kate's Cafe and Restaurant

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Open for: Breakfast to dinner
Price range: $$
At the late chef Kate Armah’s outstanding neighborhood Ghanaian restaurant in east London, the sharing platter — which includes tsofi, chicken wings, kebabs, plantains, and more — might be the definition of generosity in hospitality. Other highlights here include akonfem (guinea fowl), red red (fried plantain with black eye bean stew and gari foto), and any of the soups, which come served with choice of starchy sides such as fufu, kenkey, kokonte, or rice. 
Vibe check: As the venue of choice for many visiting musicians and performers, Kate’s might be London’s least-appreciated celebrity restaurant.

A platter of Ghanaian food.
A platter at Kate’s.
Kate’s Cafe and Restaurant

Quality Wines

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
After a refurbishment of both kitchen and premises, this haven on Farringdon Road is back to the form that has made it one of the most essential of the city’s essential kitchens in recent years. Chef Nick Bramham’s cooking now leans more towards the Aegean, with the likes of giouvarlakia bringing herbed meatballs bobbing in avgolemono. The menu will change weekly and will travel across southern Europe, but look out for Bramham’s clever riffs on BLTs, lobster rolls, and perfectly seasoned pasta dishes, after peerless gildas, before flawless sour cherry cannoli.
Must-try dish: When Nick does pasta or Nick does a sandwich, you must order it.

Sweets on a decorative plate, on a spotlighted gray counter.
Pig fat cannoli at Quality Wines.
Mason Noteboom/Quality Wines

Smoking Goat

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Since March 2023, the always inventive Ben Chapman and his brilliant development chef Kim SongSoo have repositioned the laid-back Shoreditch Thai restaurant and bar Smoking Goat as a “chicken shop” — serving (very good) fried chicken, fish sauce wings, and snacks fashioned from crisped seasoned chicken skin. But Kim has also conceived a number of new dishes with a fresh focus on wok-cookery that make a visit essential; the moreish, textural phenomenon can work on its own or as the centerpiece around which other dishes can be enjoyed, such as the sweet, umami-rich pork with Chinese olives.
Must-try dish: Fried noodles with egg, chile, and green onion. Get the relishes, too.

A pink plate of noodles fried into a single sheet, topped with sliced vegetables.
Fried noodles at Smoking Goat.
Adam Coghlan

Sushi Tetsu

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Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$$
Clerkenwell’s Sushi Tetsu might be the hardest reservation in London. It also pound-for-pound serves the best (value) sushi in the city. To observe Toru Takahashi’s knife skills and to eat his omakase menu while receiving Harumi Takahashi’s gently flawless hospitality (the two are married) is to experience one of London’s most complete and completely brilliant restaurants.
Know before you go: There are only seven seats in the restaurant, all at the sushi counter.

Sushi Tetsu, one of the city’s finest Japanese sushi restaurants, is closed due to the cornavirus COVID-19 outbreak in London
Outside Tetsu.
Michael Prötin/Eater London

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Here is a restaurant that unashamedly revisits the past, where theatrical cooking happens tableside. Marvel at the preparation of Otto Tepasse’s trademark canard a la presse (pressed duck) and the ancient silverware required for it; the bird is dressed with a rich, brandy-heavy gravy made from the pressed carcass of the duck and served alongside the world’s most otherworldly carbohydrate: clouds of pommes soufflées. When a restaurateur opens a namesake restaurant, especially in the possessive, it is usually narcissistic or lazy. In the case of Otto’s, it could not be more appropriate.
Best for: Classic French cuisine with bombastic flair.

A chef lifts a duck from a brass pot.
The canard a la presse.
Ola Smit

Master Wei

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Chef Wei Guirong is a star of London dining: Her first (joint) venture, Xi’an Impression opposite the Emirates stadium in Highbury, has long held cult status among food lovers in London. But increasingly, Master Wei, Guirong’s solo project in Bloomsbury (and now Hammersmith), is outshining its forebear. Enjoy peerless biang biang noodles with vegetables or beef; fine liang pi, cold skin noodles with a cool, refreshing, umami-rich dressing; and the chef’s Xi’an-style “burgers” with a filling comprising cumin-spiced beef or pork.
Know before you go: The Bloomsbury location is bigger, so it’s easier to get a table.

A range of shared items on decorative dishes.
Biang biang noodles, smacked cucumbers, ou jia mo, and liang pi at Master Wei.
Sam Ashton

St. John Bread and Wine

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
While the original St. John is rightly regarded as the most important British restaurant in a generation, Bread and Wine, the sibling site in Spitalfields, is a better and more interesting restaurant today. If food were a religion, then this would be its church. Welsh rarebit, bone marrow and parsley salad, foie gras on toast, mussels with cider, deviled kidneys, half a dozen madeleines, and a whole pie, which might be filled with pheasant, bacon, and trotter. Praise be. 
Best for: Lunch is one of the purest, most heavenly restaurant experiences in London.

A table full of dishes and wine.
Welsh rarebit, liver toast, and madeleines at St. John Bread and Wine.
St. John Bread and Wine

Royal China Club

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
This legend among London’s Cantonese restaurants is a sight to behold on a Sunday at lunchtime, as families from across the city gather for steaming baskets of soup-filled xiao long bao, har gow, siu mai, crisp-fried spring onion pancakes, and glistening plates of cheung fun packed with sweet-salty pork or chubby prawns. This incredibly well-oiled machine has been running for decades, rightly becoming one of London’s most famous dim sum restaurants. 
Best for: The formality of the vast dining rooms and huge round tables makes it the perfect spot for celebratory feasts.

Chishuru

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Joké Bakare’s small, two-story central London venue is no secret to anyone interested in restaurants: The chef’s modern recreations of classic dishes from Nigeria and the broader West African region have earned recognition from across the globe, including from the Michelin guide, which awarded Chishuru a star. As well as the chef’s immense presence, inventiveness, and ability to convey her love of food, the brilliance of Chishuru’s menu is rooted in age-old practices of fermentation, which lend many of the dishes a deep and lasting umami. It’s there in dishes like beef sirloin and dawadawa short rib with Tokyo turnip and a bitter leaf sauce, as well as grilled guinea fowl breast with celeriac cake, jalapeño, and egusi sauce. 
Must-try dishes: Be sure to try Bakare’s jollof rice, and leave room for dessert.

Koya Soho

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Open for: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Price range: $$
Shuko Oda’s little bar in Soho is among London’s most acclaimed Japanese restaurants. Over a long, blond wooden counter, chefs calmly and politely pass hot bowls of steaming broth containing noodles made on-site, topped with proteins like tempura prawn or smoked mackerel, or seasonal green vegetables from Sussex farm Namayasai. The traditional Japanese breakfast is the most steadying in London.
Know before you go: The specials board of small plates changes every day and exhibits some of the city’s best modern British cooking.

From above, plates of noodles, tempura, and rice.
Dishes at Koya Soho.
Koya Soho

Bar Italia

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Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
Bar Italia remains one of London’s most precious institutions, a relic of the mid-20th century sitting indomitably on Soho’s Frith Street. More than almost anywhere else in the capital, Soho is a victim of change, fads, and nonsensical restaurants. (True story: A half decade ago this same street played host to a venue called Flavour Bastard.) But Bar Italia never changes. And for that, we must be grateful. Its consistency and sense of self is what makes it so steadying and reassuring in a world of flux and uncertainty. At Bar Italia you always know your espresso will be bitter, your Peroni will be cold, and your bacon ciabatta will be better than almost anything else you can get in this storied but spoiled patch of the city.
Best for: An iconic, reliable breakfast and espresso.

Customers sit on a terrace outside a restaurant with neon lettering reading Bar Italia.
Sitting outside Bar Italia.

Cloud Land

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Cloud Land is one of just two London venues specializing in the cuisine of the Yunnan province of southwestern China. The serious restaurant serves ambitious and delicious food. The Yunnan spicy chicken, red with chiles and smoky with Chinese black cardamom, is incredible (and incredibly unusual in the city). So too are the ceremonial cross-bridge noodle soup and the Dai-style fried beef and mince dishes (the latter are reminiscent of Thai larbs). There’s playfulness, too, in the crispy, simply seasoned pork and the vinegar-dressed fried cabbage, which is the perfect accompaniment to cut through a host of hotter, richer plates.
Know before you go: A waiter at the restaurant describes Yunnanese flavors as a “cross between Thai and Sichuan.”

Chopped chicken in a pool of red sauce.
Spicy chicken.
Adam Coghlan

Wong Kei

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Gerrard Street’s Cantonese institution needs little introduction. Wong Kei is a decades-old London restaurant famous for its multistory dining room, roast meats (duck, char siu), wontons, red-ringed plates, and the now-cult (if much overstated) brusque service. Its enduring appeal — in spite of newer, trendier, regionally diverse restaurants in central London’s Chinatown — is its faithfulness to the traditions of dependable and delicious Cantonese cooking in the U.K., the stuff of a bygone era. In other words, it’s a giant, 500-seat living monument to a time before bubble waffles and Instagram-first openings.
Best for: A nostalgic UK-Cantonese meal with a group.

The exterior of Wong Kei, a Chinatown institution.
Outside Wong Kei.
Michaël Protin

Normah's

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Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$
Chef Normah Abd Hamid and her family team offer a Malaysian comfort menu that makes the restaurant one of the best in the city from a nook of a unit in Queensway Market. Sour, hot assam pedas; roti to rival London’s King in Euston; and beef rendang or nasi lemak to go alongside. Normah’s is quaint and Normah is brilliant; this remains one of central London’s best restaurants to visit with a small group of friends and one to take out-of-towners visiting the city.
Know before you go: The food is halal, and no alcohol is allowed on site.

A large bowl of curry laksa with eggs and vegetables peaking out of the broth, and chopsticks resting on the rim.
Curry prawn laksa at Normah’s.
Michaël Protin

The Ritz Restaurant

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Open for: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Price range: $$$$
There’s something lazily obvious about including the Ritz on a list of essential restaurants in London, but credit where credit’s due. The chef in charge comes fully garlanded: John Williams MBE is the master of niche, old-school French fine dining, delivering dishes of exceptional precision, yet never at the expense of deliciousness. Despite much frippery and eye-watering expense, when you get down to the brass tacks of a meal at the Ritz, it’s really quite simple: immaculately seasoned ingredients, assembled into balanced dishes, cooked adroitly. That’s true across the menu, but nowhere more so than in the Dorset crab with creme fraiche and Imperial caviar; filet of veal with white asparagus and lovage; the classic beef Wellington; and the theatrical crepe suzette.
Know before you go: The restaurant will make sure you comply with the formal dress code.

An ornate dining room with chandeliers, gold ornamentation, large windows, and tables set with white tablecloths.
The dining room at the Ritz.
The Ritz London

40 Maltby Street

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
A treasure. Unmoved by the comings and goings of trends, Bermondsey’s 40 Maltby St is a 40-cover answer to the question, pejorative as it may often be: What is British food? Steve Williams is a chef’s chef, cited by James Lowe, Brett Graham, and Florence Knight in their top five in the city. Raef Hodgson of distributor Gergovie Wines — which features low-intervention styles — runs the front-of-house without hubris. Recent dishes included winners such as pork schnitzel with raw celeriac, mustard, and braised potatoes, onion, and thyme, or a chestnut and brown sugar meringue.
Know before you go: Check Instagram for the menu, which always features an in-joke or two.

A variety of dishes on a green background.
Dishes at 40 Maltby St.
Ola Smit

Kaieteur Kitchen

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Chef Faye Gomes’s peerless Guyanese market stall has relocated to Castle Square following the controversial demolition of Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre next to which Gomes had traded for 17 years. With trademark, long-prepared, and slow-cooked dishes, she draws on the many culinary influences and colonial legacies of Guyana: pepper pot; garlic pork; cow foot souse; dal puri roti; pholourie; fried fish with tomato; potato, green mango, okra, and coconut curry; stew pumpkin; and stewed brown chicken, which, like the pepper pot, is colored and enriched with cassareep, a liquid extraction from cassava root, as well as clove and cinnamon.
Must-try dish: Have a chat with Faye about pepper pot and specifically the importance of cassareep.

A plate of meat, plantains, and vegetables.
Guyanese meat and rice at Kaieteur Kitchen.
Tomas Jivanda

Saikei Chinese Restaurant

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
This vast restaurant dining room sits quite inexplicably on the ground floor of a Holiday Inn Express budget hotel just off the A102 on the south exit of the Blackwall Tunnel. But this is a destination dining room of tremendous pedigree. A mid-length, high-quality dim sum menu features a must-try fried prawn and Chinese chive number that stakes a fair claim to being the best single-bite hot item in the city — a crispy, fatty, sweet, salty umami nugget. Among the noodle plates to share, king prawns are excellent, with the noodles taking on the requisite smoke from the wok, seasoned judiciously. Saikei is a close-to-perfect family and group dining experience.
Best for: Sunday lunch, preferably with a large group.

A large dining room with a green carpet, large round tables, and restaurant patrons sitting down to eat with waiters walking the room, taking orders.
Inside Saikei.
Saikei/Facebook

Crisp Pizza

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
For the past year-plus, London has welcomed a style of pizza that’s closer to American slice-joint pies. It’s drier, and, well, crispier than the sloppier, saucier Neapolitan cousins that have dominated the London pizza scene for over a decade. The aptly named Crisp Pizza (for Crisp Street, ya know) is serving this style, on the well-done side (don’t tell this guy), with a range of classic toppings, like pepperoni with mozzarella and tomato, ’nduja, and “seasoned mushroom,” and there’s a four-cheese calzone, too. These guys call Parmesan “Parm,” which belies the back-to-basics brilliance of the overall enterprise.
Know before you go: It’s tucked inside Chancellors pub on Crisp Road.

Open for: Dinner to late night during the week, lunch to late night on weekends
Price range: $$$
In his guide to the city’s best East African restaurants, Riaz Phillips says Adulis’s “palatial setting has to make it one of the finest east African and Eritrean restaurants in the capital.” The dark wooden fixtures give every meal here a sense of occasion. The restaurant is well-suited to solo or group dining, with a menu offering selections for one, two, four, and eight persons. Look out for kwanta fitfit, smoked, dried beef with green chile and injera; zilzl assa, grilled red snapper seasoned with Eritrean herbs; and the entire range of vegetarian and vegan stews, comprising spinach, beans, chickpeas, and lentils, all eaten with more of the excellent, subtly tangy, and moreish injera.
Best for: A special occasion with vegetarians and vegans.

A technicoloured injera spread with lots of colorful dips.
An injera spread at Adulis.
Adulis

Nandine

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Open for: Dinner on weeknights, brunch through dinner on weekends
Price range: $$
The second branch for this south London institution, Nandine — “kitchen” in Kurdish — is run by Pary Baban, husband Pola, and sons Rang and Raman. During the day it serves a menu of brunch dishes, meze, and intricate pastries. Technicolored and abundant meze platters served in the evening include kubba (minced beef and rice patties), onion dolma, and qawarma. Pastries like borek, made with a Kurdish pastry called galgali, and baklava are not to be missed.
Best for: Go for brunch and get the meze, for yourself.

A mezze platter with various dishes surrounding a mound of rice.
A Kurdish mezze platter at Nandine.
Nandine

Tasty Jerk

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Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Possibly London’s best Jamaican jerk shop. On the edge of Crystal Palace’s Selhurst Park, with a smoky aroma detectable from many hundred meters, this stark room is dedicated to one thing: immaculately, judiciously seasoned protein grilled without remorse. The age of these oil drums and the time-honored expertise of chef Murphy Lawrence and his team result in jerked pork belly, chicken, goat, and even lobster, all penetrated with smoke and lifted by allspice, Scotch bonnet, and salt. Tasty Jerk is a heady, intoxicating, and remarkably good-value eating experience.
Know before you go: Buy a bottle of the home-made pepper sauce to take away, but use with caution and keep it in the fridge.

Two takeout containers of chopped jerked meat with rice.
Plates of jerk chicken and rice and peas.
Aki Eats

Ambassadors Clubhouse

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Open for: Lunch and dinner every day, and late nights on weekends
Price range: $$$
JKS Restaurants’ (Gymkhana, Trishna, Brigadiers) newest venue has a fair claim at being its most extra to date. The pre-Partition Punjabi restaurant focuses on the rich cuisine of the north of India and Pakistan and the wider region, incorporating Afghan influences, too. It’s full-on in every way, and fulfils its promise of being a clubhouse, particularly in the evening. Don’t be shy with the snacks and starters, making sure to include a portion of papads with chutneys and raita, as well as the fast-food-like chilli cheese pakode with tamatar chutney. Then move through some of the grills, like the butter chicken chops (a speciality preparation of the restaurant group), and finish with a curry — the move here is the guinea fowl changezi, which is best mopped up with a portion of the paratha-like ajwaini warqi naan. One of the hottest restaurants to have opened in the city in the last six months. 
Best for: Festive dinner with a group and ordering big.

A metal dish of bright red curry with large chunks of meat and herbs on top.
Guinea fowl changezi.
Ambassadors Clubhouse

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$$
For my money, Ikoyi may be the choicest special occasion venue in the city. Chef Jeremy Chan and restaurateur Iré Hasan-Odukale’s venue has evolved since its inception in St. James’s in 2017. It now occupies a sleek location in the bowels of 180 The Strand and has matured accordingly, elevating the food yet further to match its fancy new surroundings. While it is still philosophically rooted in the culinary traditions and flavor profiles of Nigeria and the West African region, Ikoyi is now an archetype of the Ultra-Modern European genre. Recent meals have featured the seductive savory deliciousness of Chan’s signature smoked jollof rice, and the precise application of spice and chile heat to immaculately cooked protein will blow you away, whether it’s sweetbread suya, dry-aged turbot, or charcoal-grilled lobster. A special restaurant, deserving of its two Michelin-starred status. 
Best for: A true blowout dinner.

Goodbye Horses

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Open for: Dinner and drinks
Price range: $$
These days, London has no shortage of excellent new-age wine bars. It’s been a signature category in the city since the days of P. Franco and the likes of Terroirs before. But in more recent times, spots like Cadet, Hector’s, and Yuki Bar have raised the standard of wine bars sharply. At Goodbye Horses, which opened in the second part of 2024 (and where I enjoyed one of my favorite nights out last year), sommelier Nathalie Nelles oversees one of the most interesting wine lists in the city. Nelles has a penchant for excellent French wines from the Jura, Loire, and Burgundy. Go in the evening to enjoy a selection of small plates, which might include an avant-garde beef tartare, some carefully arranged crostini-like toasts, and a cheese plate. But you’re here to drink, really, and to take in the quite extraordinary interior, hand-painted curtains and long, organically shaped wooden bar — which lend the room a World of Interiors vibe in the best way. 
Must-try: Complex savagnins from the Jura, elegant chenin blancs from the Loire Valley, grower Champagnes, and a mix of modern and classic wines from regal Burgundian producers.

A restaurant interior with a long, natural wood bar, colorful mural above the bar, and curtains letting in light on wooden tables.
That stunner of a bar at Goodbye Horses.
Goodbye Horses
Adam Coghlan is a writer and editor based in London. In 2017, he launched Eater London and ran the site until it ceased daily publication in 2023. You can find him on Instagram @adamcoghlan.

Durak Tantuni

Open for: Lunch through late night
Price range: $
As Jonathan Nunn wrote in his guide to north London’s best-value restaurants, “Durak, a tantuni salonu run by Dogan Yesil on West Green Road, is the superior late night snack template.” Only the tantuni, a speciality which originates in the city of Mersin on the southern coast of Turkey, is served here. Beef is boiled, seasoned with the likes of tomato, pul biber, sumac, and cumin and subsequently fried in cotton oil before being loaded, meat juices aplenty, inside a thin lavash with chopped parsley, tomato, and onion. It is then given a pleasing bend before being eaten; a selection of high-acid accompaniments — pickled chiles, lemon — provide the necessary cut-through.
Best for: A snack on the way home after a long day.

Meat and veggies in a wrap about to be wrapped up.
The tantuni is ready to be rolled.
Michaël Protin

Etles Uyghur Restaurant

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Mukaddes Yadikar’s restaurant near Walthamstow Central station opened in London in summer 2017. It was London’s first strictly Uyghur restaurant, and has become perhaps E17’s finest neighborhood restaurant. To start, go for the Chaomian, a stir-fry of short noodle snippets wokked with chunks of beef, spring onion, and tomato. Third, and most importantly, get the signature da pan ji (“big plate chicken”): a remarkably deep, savoury, and spicy chicken and potato stew, teeming with Sichuan peppercorns, served with flat hand-pulled noodles. This is a warm, homely, and treasured space to eat in east London.
Best for: Casual dinner with a group.

A variety of dishes, including a meat and vegetable platter, rice and noodles, and soup.
Dishes at Etles.
Andrew Leitch

Bake Street

Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
This small Stoke Newington cafe seriously overdelivers, preparing some of London’s best American diner-style smash burgers, Nashville hots, playful samosas, and the inimitable chicken makhani sandwich come the weekend, with a solid core menu for weekday visitors. Its sweet offering isn’t half bad either; cookies are particularly excellent, as is the seasonal ice cream from Crabtree and co-founder Feroz Gajia in warmer months.
Must-try dish: Do not miss the ingenious creme brulee cookie, developed by pastry chef Chloe-Rose Crabtree from a recipe by Los Angeles’s Dough and Arrow. And the makhani chicken bun at weekends.

A fried chicken sandwich with cheese.
Bake Street’s fried chicken with makhani sauce, American cheese, and coriander chutney on brioche.
Adam Coghlan

Cadet

Open for: Lunch and dinner on weekends, dinner only during the week
Price range: $$
Eater London’s Restaurant of the Year 2022 comprises three discrete yet intertwined endeavors. Downstairs in the basement kitchen, George Jephson butchers whole animals, repurposing them as immaculate charcuterie, while upstairs, chef Mike Murphy uses excellent ingredients to prepare simple plates that lean French and southern European — think trout poached in butter with roe and sorrel; or a roast game bird with quince and bitter leaves. Sommeliers Tom Beattie and Fran Roberts, the duo behind the wine importer bearing both names, run the bar and the floor with a small team. Cadet is a wine bar, a restaurant, a charcutier, and a shopfront; it feels French and it feels London; and, from the moment it opened, it has always felt just right.
Must-try dish: Pate en croute.

A group of people mills around outside a restaurant with large windows.
Outside Cadet on Newington Green in north London.
Michaël Protin

Bad Manners

Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
Bad Manners — a breakfast and lunch kiosk, originally called Quarter Kitchen, which Max Fishman opened with chef Rodrigo Cervantes in a Hackney churchyard in summer 2022 — serves some of London’s best Mexican food. Originally from Mexico City and previously an employee of Smoking Goat, Koya, and Rita’s in London, Cervantes cooks a mighty fine breakfast. Options include two tortillas with hash browns, fried eggs, and smoked bacon glazed with maple syrup and sugar; breakfast burritos based on the American McDonald’s version (with sausage patties, American cheese, and chopped peppers); gorditas; tepache; tacos al pastor done on a small yakitori grill inside the kiosk; and the mess-making bright-red pambazo. Bad Manners also serves excellent coffee and features a range of espressos from some of Europe’s best roasters.
Best for: Mexican and Mexican-American breakfast outdoors.

A bean, potato, and fried egg breakfast taco on a white plate with yellow rim on a blue background.
Bean, potato, and fried egg breakfast taco.
Caitlin Isola

Bánh Mì Hội-An

Open for: Weekday lunch
Price range: $
This diminutive Vietnamese shop on Hackney’s Graham Road serves one of the city’s best sandwiches — inside one of the city’s best baguettes. Although the spot has just one table and three or four seats, it’s difficult to think of warmer hospitality than at Bánh Mì Hội-An. The duo behind the counter prepare fresh sandwiches to go, and while the pork classic is excellent, don’t sleep on the turmeric-heavy fried catfish on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays; fragrant with coriander, mayo, fermented chile paste, sriracha, and pickled vegetables, it is an object lesson in flavor, texture, and balance.
Best for: Takeaway lunch.

From above, a partially eaten banh mi sandwich and a cup of mostly eaten soup, with napkins and utensils.
Banh mi with a chicken noodle soup — a perfect, restorative winter lunch.
Adam Coghlan

Trullo

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Trullo’s elegant dining room and simple, seasonal food make it one of London’s best Italian restaurants and one of its finest neighborhood restaurants. Dark wood, low lighting, white tablecloths, and straightforward plating make Trullo decidedly anti-Instagram. Its spiritual parents are the two most important restaurants of a generation, the River Cafe and St. John. Dishes marry Italian traditions with British (and Italian) ingredients, which are fashioned into antipasti, fresh pastas, and secondi, dishes that often do a little time on the charcoal grill. Where sibling site Padella is cheaper, faster, and increasingly difficult to get into, Trullo is more of a grown-up place to eat and relax. A largely Italian (and natural-leaning) wine list is just as considered as everything else.
Must-try dish: The signature pappardelle with beef shin ragu.

A slice of tart with a dollop of cream alongside.
Lemon tart at Trullo.
Trullo

Yuki Bar

Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$
Ex-Noma sommelier Yukiyasu Kaneko’s wine bar, set in a cozy space beneath a railway arch close to London Fields, may yet become the new template for natural wine bars, a category that has grown a little tired and derivative. Few other businesses can rival Yuki’s assured sense of self and pleasing ambience. An extensive (and fairly priced) list includes highlights from the Jura, Savoie, and Loire regions, as well as bottles from elsewhere in the Old World. Food is secondary but not an afterthought, with snacky dishes such as eggs with tahini, house-made potato crisps dressed with sansho pepper, cured beet tops, silken tofu with mushrooms, and made-to-order beef tartare.
Must-try dish: Ask Yuki for his best wines from the Jura or the Savoie.

Thattukada

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
East Ham is home to London’s largest Kerala community and its greatest concentration of South Indian restaurants. The pick of them is Thattukada, run by chef-owners Biju and Preeti Gopinath. Curries and roasts have a depth of flavor and spicing that belie their simple descriptions, and they should be mopped up with crisp parottas or snow-white appams. But it’s the legendary fries that are unmissable: half a chicken cut into segments, then aggressively and skillfully fried with chiles and crispy onions; little netholi (anchovies) cooked and eaten whole; or battered mussels that pop thrillingly in the mouth.
Must-try dish: Get the mussel fry.

A plate of chicken fry on a dark background.
Chicken fry at Thattukada in East Ham, an outstanding Kerala neighbourhood restaurant.
Tomas Jivanda

Planque

Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$$
This elegantly designed wine club beneath a Haggerston railway arch now firmly belongs in the top bracket of (French) restaurants in London. Chef Seb Myers and his modern-ish, playful take on French country cooking fits perfectly with the fascinating and broad wine list owned by patron Jonathan Alphandery. With dishes such as a red mullet tartine; grilled leeks vinaigrette with Tunworth cheese; a duck offal choux farcis; and mackerel with coco beans and greens; as well as a caramel tart with blue cheese, Planque has nearly everything that makes a great modern European restaurant great.
Best for: Pairing some of London’s cleverest cooking with some of the best wine in the city.

A restaurant exterior with artwork on a white brick wall and a small sign with the restaurant’s name.
Outside Planque.
Michaël Protin

The Yellow Bittern

Open for: Lunch
Price range: $$
This quaint place close to King’s Cross hasn’t been open long, but has been a conversation starter the likes of which the London restaurant scene hasn’t seen for years. Chef and Belfastman Hugh Corcoran’s sub-20-seater venue is open only at lunchtime (midday and 2 p.m. sittings are offered), reservations must be made via the restaurant’s landline (or postcard, honestly), it is cash-only, and the wine menu is all kept inside the faintly grumpy, periodically affable proprietor’s head. You can skip the starters (save, perhaps, the homemade soda bread and butter); just head straight to the mains, where you might find a slice of game bird pie with mash, a portion of braised guinea fowl with cabbage, or a fantastic rendition of a Dublin classic — coddle: boiled, peppery white sausages in a salty broth with root vegetables and lots of allium. This place eschews everything that the London restaurant industry has become, while bringing forth some (if not all) of the good things it once offered. And you can say, “I was there then.”
Best for: Going back in time.

A four-top table with a white tablecloth spread with a mostly finished meal including plates with scraps, utensils, and, in one case, a napkin on them, an empty cooking pot, an open bottle of wine, and a small amount of red wine left in the glasses.
A spread at The Yellow Bittern.
Hugh Corcoran

Roti King

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
The area around Euston station is replete with no-frills, delicious places to eat. This little Malaysian basement setup from chef Sugen Gopal on Doric Way may be the best. Two pieces of freshly made, high-moisture roti canai — to eat in or take away — are best served with curry dal. Roti King has a few other locations throughout London as well.
Know before you go: The new online queueing system makes for a seamless experience.

A server holds a platter of roti and dal.
Roti canai and daal at Roti King, a classic London restaurant.
Ola Smit

Brawn

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Chef Ed Wilson’s hearty French Italian menu is a showcase for his own personal love of food. To eat here is to share that passion, especially now with an increased emphasis on fresh pasta and spectacular comfort food. Wines are predominantly natural and biodynamic. Illustrated wine posters, art, and curios on whitewashed brick walls also make the two relaxed dining rooms on Columbia Road among London’s most handsome and cool. 
Vibe check: This place has the city’s smallest and most beautiful bathrooms — among the very first to use Aesop, too.

A plate of agnolotti bathed in warm autumnal light, flecked with Parmesan cheese and purple radicchio leaves.
Agnolotti at Brawn.
James Hansen

Kate's Cafe and Restaurant

Open for: Breakfast to dinner
Price range: $$
At the late chef Kate Armah’s outstanding neighborhood Ghanaian restaurant in east London, the sharing platter — which includes tsofi, chicken wings, kebabs, plantains, and more — might be the definition of generosity in hospitality. Other highlights here include akonfem (guinea fowl), red red (fried plantain with black eye bean stew and gari foto), and any of the soups, which come served with choice of starchy sides such as fufu, kenkey, kokonte, or rice. 
Vibe check: As the venue of choice for many visiting musicians and performers, Kate’s might be London’s least-appreciated celebrity restaurant.

A platter of Ghanaian food.
A platter at Kate’s.
Kate’s Cafe and Restaurant

Quality Wines

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
After a refurbishment of both kitchen and premises, this haven on Farringdon Road is back to the form that has made it one of the most essential of the city’s essential kitchens in recent years. Chef Nick Bramham’s cooking now leans more towards the Aegean, with the likes of giouvarlakia bringing herbed meatballs bobbing in avgolemono. The menu will change weekly and will travel across southern Europe, but look out for Bramham’s clever riffs on BLTs, lobster rolls, and perfectly seasoned pasta dishes, after peerless gildas, before flawless sour cherry cannoli.
Must-try dish: When Nick does pasta or Nick does a sandwich, you must order it.

Sweets on a decorative plate, on a spotlighted gray counter.
Pig fat cannoli at Quality Wines.
Mason Noteboom/Quality Wines

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Smoking Goat

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Since March 2023, the always inventive Ben Chapman and his brilliant development chef Kim SongSoo have repositioned the laid-back Shoreditch Thai restaurant and bar Smoking Goat as a “chicken shop” — serving (very good) fried chicken, fish sauce wings, and snacks fashioned from crisped seasoned chicken skin. But Kim has also conceived a number of new dishes with a fresh focus on wok-cookery that make a visit essential; the moreish, textural phenomenon can work on its own or as the centerpiece around which other dishes can be enjoyed, such as the sweet, umami-rich pork with Chinese olives.
Must-try dish: Fried noodles with egg, chile, and green onion. Get the relishes, too.

A pink plate of noodles fried into a single sheet, topped with sliced vegetables.
Fried noodles at Smoking Goat.
Adam Coghlan

Sushi Tetsu

Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$$
Clerkenwell’s Sushi Tetsu might be the hardest reservation in London. It also pound-for-pound serves the best (value) sushi in the city. To observe Toru Takahashi’s knife skills and to eat his omakase menu while receiving Harumi Takahashi’s gently flawless hospitality (the two are married) is to experience one of London’s most complete and completely brilliant restaurants.
Know before you go: There are only seven seats in the restaurant, all at the sushi counter.

Sushi Tetsu, one of the city’s finest Japanese sushi restaurants, is closed due to the cornavirus COVID-19 outbreak in London
Outside Tetsu.
Michael Prötin/Eater London

Otto's

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Here is a restaurant that unashamedly revisits the past, where theatrical cooking happens tableside. Marvel at the preparation of Otto Tepasse’s trademark canard a la presse (pressed duck) and the ancient silverware required for it; the bird is dressed with a rich, brandy-heavy gravy made from the pressed carcass of the duck and served alongside the world’s most otherworldly carbohydrate: clouds of pommes soufflées. When a restaurateur opens a namesake restaurant, especially in the possessive, it is usually narcissistic or lazy. In the case of Otto’s, it could not be more appropriate.
Best for: Classic French cuisine with bombastic flair.

A chef lifts a duck from a brass pot.
The canard a la presse.
Ola Smit

Master Wei

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Chef Wei Guirong is a star of London dining: Her first (joint) venture, Xi’an Impression opposite the Emirates stadium in Highbury, has long held cult status among food lovers in London. But increasingly, Master Wei, Guirong’s solo project in Bloomsbury (and now Hammersmith), is outshining its forebear. Enjoy peerless biang biang noodles with vegetables or beef; fine liang pi, cold skin noodles with a cool, refreshing, umami-rich dressing; and the chef’s Xi’an-style “burgers” with a filling comprising cumin-spiced beef or pork.
Know before you go: The Bloomsbury location is bigger, so it’s easier to get a table.

A range of shared items on decorative dishes.
Biang biang noodles, smacked cucumbers, ou jia mo, and liang pi at Master Wei.
Sam Ashton

St. John Bread and Wine

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
While the original St. John is rightly regarded as the most important British restaurant in a generation, Bread and Wine, the sibling site in Spitalfields, is a better and more interesting restaurant today. If food were a religion, then this would be its church. Welsh rarebit, bone marrow and parsley salad, foie gras on toast, mussels with cider, deviled kidneys, half a dozen madeleines, and a whole pie, which might be filled with pheasant, bacon, and trotter. Praise be. 
Best for: Lunch is one of the purest, most heavenly restaurant experiences in London.

A table full of dishes and wine.
Welsh rarebit, liver toast, and madeleines at St. John Bread and Wine.
St. John Bread and Wine

Royal China Club

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
This legend among London’s Cantonese restaurants is a sight to behold on a Sunday at lunchtime, as families from across the city gather for steaming baskets of soup-filled xiao long bao, har gow, siu mai, crisp-fried spring onion pancakes, and glistening plates of cheung fun packed with sweet-salty pork or chubby prawns. This incredibly well-oiled machine has been running for decades, rightly becoming one of London’s most famous dim sum restaurants. 
Best for: The formality of the vast dining rooms and huge round tables makes it the perfect spot for celebratory feasts.

Chishuru

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$
Joké Bakare’s small, two-story central London venue is no secret to anyone interested in restaurants: The chef’s modern recreations of classic dishes from Nigeria and the broader West African region have earned recognition from across the globe, including from the Michelin guide, which awarded Chishuru a star. As well as the chef’s immense presence, inventiveness, and ability to convey her love of food, the brilliance of Chishuru’s menu is rooted in age-old practices of fermentation, which lend many of the dishes a deep and lasting umami. It’s there in dishes like beef sirloin and dawadawa short rib with Tokyo turnip and a bitter leaf sauce, as well as grilled guinea fowl breast with celeriac cake, jalapeño, and egusi sauce. 
Must-try dishes: Be sure to try Bakare’s jollof rice, and leave room for dessert.

Koya Soho

Open for: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Price range: $$
Shuko Oda’s little bar in Soho is among London’s most acclaimed Japanese restaurants. Over a long, blond wooden counter, chefs calmly and politely pass hot bowls of steaming broth containing noodles made on-site, topped with proteins like tempura prawn or smoked mackerel, or seasonal green vegetables from Sussex farm Namayasai. The traditional Japanese breakfast is the most steadying in London.
Know before you go: The specials board of small plates changes every day and exhibits some of the city’s best modern British cooking.

From above, plates of noodles, tempura, and rice.
Dishes at Koya Soho.
Koya Soho

Bar Italia

Open for: Breakfast and lunch
Price range: $
Bar Italia remains one of London’s most precious institutions, a relic of the mid-20th century sitting indomitably on Soho’s Frith Street. More than almost anywhere else in the capital, Soho is a victim of change, fads, and nonsensical restaurants. (True story: A half decade ago this same street played host to a venue called Flavour Bastard.) But Bar Italia never changes. And for that, we must be grateful. Its consistency and sense of self is what makes it so steadying and reassuring in a world of flux and uncertainty. At Bar Italia you always know your espresso will be bitter, your Peroni will be cold, and your bacon ciabatta will be better than almost anything else you can get in this storied but spoiled patch of the city.
Best for: An iconic, reliable breakfast and espresso.

Customers sit on a terrace outside a restaurant with neon lettering reading Bar Italia.
Sitting outside Bar Italia.

Cloud Land

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Cloud Land is one of just two London venues specializing in the cuisine of the Yunnan province of southwestern China. The serious restaurant serves ambitious and delicious food. The Yunnan spicy chicken, red with chiles and smoky with Chinese black cardamom, is incredible (and incredibly unusual in the city). So too are the ceremonial cross-bridge noodle soup and the Dai-style fried beef and mince dishes (the latter are reminiscent of Thai larbs). There’s playfulness, too, in the crispy, simply seasoned pork and the vinegar-dressed fried cabbage, which is the perfect accompaniment to cut through a host of hotter, richer plates.
Know before you go: A waiter at the restaurant describes Yunnanese flavors as a “cross between Thai and Sichuan.”

Chopped chicken in a pool of red sauce.
Spicy chicken.
Adam Coghlan

Wong Kei

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Gerrard Street’s Cantonese institution needs little introduction. Wong Kei is a decades-old London restaurant famous for its multistory dining room, roast meats (duck, char siu), wontons, red-ringed plates, and the now-cult (if much overstated) brusque service. Its enduring appeal — in spite of newer, trendier, regionally diverse restaurants in central London’s Chinatown — is its faithfulness to the traditions of dependable and delicious Cantonese cooking in the U.K., the stuff of a bygone era. In other words, it’s a giant, 500-seat living monument to a time before bubble waffles and Instagram-first openings.
Best for: A nostalgic UK-Cantonese meal with a group.

The exterior of Wong Kei, a Chinatown institution.
Outside Wong Kei.
Michaël Protin

Normah's

Open for: Dinner
Price range: $$
Chef Normah Abd Hamid and her family team offer a Malaysian comfort menu that makes the restaurant one of the best in the city from a nook of a unit in Queensway Market. Sour, hot assam pedas; roti to rival London’s King in Euston; and beef rendang or nasi lemak to go alongside. Normah’s is quaint and Normah is brilliant; this remains one of central London’s best restaurants to visit with a small group of friends and one to take out-of-towners visiting the city.
Know before you go: The food is halal, and no alcohol is allowed on site.

A large bowl of curry laksa with eggs and vegetables peaking out of the broth, and chopsticks resting on the rim.
Curry prawn laksa at Normah’s.
Michaël Protin

The Ritz Restaurant

Open for: Breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Price range: $$$$
There’s something lazily obvious about including the Ritz on a list of essential restaurants in London, but credit where credit’s due. The chef in charge comes fully garlanded: John Williams MBE is the master of niche, old-school French fine dining, delivering dishes of exceptional precision, yet never at the expense of deliciousness. Despite much frippery and eye-watering expense, when you get down to the brass tacks of a meal at the Ritz, it’s really quite simple: immaculately seasoned ingredients, assembled into balanced dishes, cooked adroitly. That’s true across the menu, but nowhere more so than in the Dorset crab with creme fraiche and Imperial caviar; filet of veal with white asparagus and lovage; the classic beef Wellington; and the theatrical crepe suzette.
Know before you go: The restaurant will make sure you comply with the formal dress code.

An ornate dining room with chandeliers, gold ornamentation, large windows, and tables set with white tablecloths.
The dining room at the Ritz.
The Ritz London

40 Maltby Street

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
A treasure. Unmoved by the comings and goings of trends, Bermondsey’s 40 Maltby St is a 40-cover answer to the question, pejorative as it may often be: What is British food? Steve Williams is a chef’s chef, cited by James Lowe, Brett Graham, and Florence Knight in their top five in the city. Raef Hodgson of distributor Gergovie Wines — which features low-intervention styles — runs the front-of-house without hubris. Recent dishes included winners such as pork schnitzel with raw celeriac, mustard, and braised potatoes, onion, and thyme, or a chestnut and brown sugar meringue.
Know before you go: Check Instagram for the menu, which always features an in-joke or two.

A variety of dishes on a green background.
Dishes at 40 Maltby St.
Ola Smit

Kaieteur Kitchen

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
Chef Faye Gomes’s peerless Guyanese market stall has relocated to Castle Square following the controversial demolition of Elephant and Castle Shopping Centre next to which Gomes had traded for 17 years. With trademark, long-prepared, and slow-cooked dishes, she draws on the many culinary influences and colonial legacies of Guyana: pepper pot; garlic pork; cow foot souse; dal puri roti; pholourie; fried fish with tomato; potato, green mango, okra, and coconut curry; stew pumpkin; and stewed brown chicken, which, like the pepper pot, is colored and enriched with cassareep, a liquid extraction from cassava root, as well as clove and cinnamon.
Must-try dish: Have a chat with Faye about pepper pot and specifically the importance of cassareep.

A plate of meat, plantains, and vegetables.
Guyanese meat and rice at Kaieteur Kitchen.
Tomas Jivanda

Saikei Chinese Restaurant

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
This vast restaurant dining room sits quite inexplicably on the ground floor of a Holiday Inn Express budget hotel just off the A102 on the south exit of the Blackwall Tunnel. But this is a destination dining room of tremendous pedigree. A mid-length, high-quality dim sum menu features a must-try fried prawn and Chinese chive number that stakes a fair claim to being the best single-bite hot item in the city — a crispy, fatty, sweet, salty umami nugget. Among the noodle plates to share, king prawns are excellent, with the noodles taking on the requisite smoke from the wok, seasoned judiciously. Saikei is a close-to-perfect family and group dining experience.
Best for: Sunday lunch, preferably with a large group.

A large dining room with a green carpet, large round tables, and restaurant patrons sitting down to eat with waiters walking the room, taking orders.
Inside Saikei.
Saikei/Facebook

Crisp Pizza

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
For the past year-plus, London has welcomed a style of pizza that’s closer to American slice-joint pies. It’s drier, and, well, crispier than the sloppier, saucier Neapolitan cousins that have dominated the London pizza scene for over a decade. The aptly named Crisp Pizza (for Crisp Street, ya know) is serving this style, on the well-done side (don’t tell this guy), with a range of classic toppings, like pepperoni with mozzarella and tomato, ’nduja, and “seasoned mushroom,” and there’s a four-cheese calzone, too. These guys call Parmesan “Parm,” which belies the back-to-basics brilliance of the overall enterprise.
Know before you go: It’s tucked inside Chancellors pub on Crisp Road.

Adulis

Open for: Dinner to late night during the week, lunch to late night on weekends
Price range: $$$
In his guide to the city’s best East African restaurants, Riaz Phillips says Adulis’s “palatial setting has to make it one of the finest east African and Eritrean restaurants in the capital.” The dark wooden fixtures give every meal here a sense of occasion. The restaurant is well-suited to solo or group dining, with a menu offering selections for one, two, four, and eight persons. Look out for kwanta fitfit, smoked, dried beef with green chile and injera; zilzl assa, grilled red snapper seasoned with Eritrean herbs; and the entire range of vegetarian and vegan stews, comprising spinach, beans, chickpeas, and lentils, all eaten with more of the excellent, subtly tangy, and moreish injera.
Best for: A special occasion with vegetarians and vegans.

A technicoloured injera spread with lots of colorful dips.
An injera spread at Adulis.
Adulis

Nandine

Open for: Dinner on weeknights, brunch through dinner on weekends
Price range: $$
The second branch for this south London institution, Nandine — “kitchen” in Kurdish — is run by Pary Baban, husband Pola, and sons Rang and Raman. During the day it serves a menu of brunch dishes, meze, and intricate pastries. Technicolored and abundant meze platters served in the evening include kubba (minced beef and rice patties), onion dolma, and qawarma. Pastries like borek, made with a Kurdish pastry called galgali, and baklava are not to be missed.
Best for: Go for brunch and get the meze, for yourself.

A mezze platter with various dishes surrounding a mound of rice.
A Kurdish mezze platter at Nandine.
Nandine

Tasty Jerk

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $
Possibly London’s best Jamaican jerk shop. On the edge of Crystal Palace’s Selhurst Park, with a smoky aroma detectable from many hundred meters, this stark room is dedicated to one thing: immaculately, judiciously seasoned protein grilled without remorse. The age of these oil drums and the time-honored expertise of chef Murphy Lawrence and his team result in jerked pork belly, chicken, goat, and even lobster, all penetrated with smoke and lifted by allspice, Scotch bonnet, and salt. Tasty Jerk is a heady, intoxicating, and remarkably good-value eating experience.
Know before you go: Buy a bottle of the home-made pepper sauce to take away, but use with caution and keep it in the fridge.

Two takeout containers of chopped jerked meat with rice.
Plates of jerk chicken and rice and peas.
Aki Eats

Ambassadors Clubhouse

Open for: Lunch and dinner every day, and late nights on weekends
Price range: $$$
JKS Restaurants’ (Gymkhana, Trishna, Brigadiers) newest venue has a fair claim at being its most extra to date. The pre-Partition Punjabi restaurant focuses on the rich cuisine of the north of India and Pakistan and the wider region, incorporating Afghan influences, too. It’s full-on in every way, and fulfils its promise of being a clubhouse, particularly in the evening. Don’t be shy with the snacks and starters, making sure to include a portion of papads with chutneys and raita, as well as the fast-food-like chilli cheese pakode with tamatar chutney. Then move through some of the grills, like the butter chicken chops (a speciality preparation of the restaurant group), and finish with a curry — the move here is the guinea fowl changezi, which is best mopped up with a portion of the paratha-like ajwaini warqi naan. One of the hottest restaurants to have opened in the city in the last six months. 
Best for: Festive dinner with a group and ordering big.

A metal dish of bright red curry with large chunks of meat and herbs on top.
Guinea fowl changezi.
Ambassadors Clubhouse

Ikoyi

Open for: Lunch and dinner
Price range: $$$$
For my money, Ikoyi may be the choicest special occasion venue in the city. Chef Jeremy Chan and restaurateur Iré Hasan-Odukale’s venue has evolved since its inception in St. James’s in 2017. It now occupies a sleek location in the bowels of 180 The Strand and has matured accordingly, elevating the food yet further to match its fancy new surroundings. While it is still philosophically rooted in the culinary traditions and flavor profiles of Nigeria and the West African region, Ikoyi is now an archetype of the Ultra-Modern European genre. Recent meals have featured the seductive savory deliciousness of Chan’s signature smoked jollof rice, and the precise application of spice and chile heat to immaculately cooked protein will blow you away, whether it’s sweetbread suya, dry-aged turbot, or charcoal-grilled lobster. A special restaurant, deserving of its two Michelin-starred status. 
Best for: A true blowout dinner.

Goodbye Horses

Open for: Dinner and drinks
Price range: $$
These days, London has no shortage of excellent new-age wine bars. It’s been a signature category in the city since the days of P. Franco and the likes of Terroirs before. But in more recent times, spots like Cadet, Hector’s, and Yuki Bar have raised the standard of wine bars sharply. At Goodbye Horses, which opened in the second part of 2024 (and where I enjoyed one of my favorite nights out last year), sommelier Nathalie Nelles oversees one of the most interesting wine lists in the city. Nelles has a penchant for excellent French wines from the Jura, Loire, and Burgundy. Go in the evening to enjoy a selection of small plates, which might include an avant-garde beef tartare, some carefully arranged crostini-like toasts, and a cheese plate. But you’re here to drink, really, and to take in the quite extraordinary interior, hand-painted curtains and long, organically shaped wooden bar — which lend the room a World of Interiors vibe in the best way. 
Must-try: Complex savagnins from the Jura, elegant chenin blancs from the Loire Valley, grower Champagnes, and a mix of modern and classic wines from regal Burgundian producers.

A restaurant interior with a long, natural wood bar, colorful mural above the bar, and curtains letting in light on wooden tables.
That stunner of a bar at Goodbye Horses.
Goodbye Horses

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